I kinda had an idea of where I wanted to go with it, but couldn’t really work out all the bugs.

Let’s just say that the exterminator has been called and we are ready to rock and roll.

Here is a quick sample of where I’m going with it. The quilting was just to get it down for the swatch and the sequins colors are just what I grabbed for the swatch. Also the background color of the circle is going to be larger (in a following picture) with free motion zigzag stitches holding it down. Also, sequins are really hard to photograph.

Since I have done all of the background (channel stitching) quilting on the garment, the next step is plotting the circles and doing the free motion over-quilting.

This is a little grouping on one of the pieces (center back). You can see the colors of the background circle are much more visible.

So, I’m returning to the sweatshop to do the embellishing. I’ll do an update as soon as something exciting happens.

The next step is the dress worn under the jacket. I have most of that ready to sew, so I’ll post it in a little bit.

G

Such a mess!

I am still trying to figure out the embellishmental direction I’m going to take with my garment so I don’t really have any progress pics to show you guys. (I know embellishmental is not a real word, BUT IT SHOULD BE!)

Having said that, I just wanted to pop in with a quick update.

Actually, this is just an excuse to show you all this gift that was sent to me by my friend Janet Stone. Yes, the multiple award winning, first-class quilter Janet Stone who has enough blue ribbons to wallpaper the dining room.

She framed the covers of the magazine that my bag pattern appears in.

I cried when I opened it. It is so beautiful and so very thoughtful of her.

I’d hug it every night before I go to bed, but I’m afraid the glass will break.

OK, that’s it for now. As soon as I get into a groove, I’ll post some updates.

G

The base fabric for my new piece was going to be hand-dyed hues of mottled violets and fuchsia.

I actually had all of this stuff dyed already, but I started to do some painted texture on the fabric and it quickly got away from me. I won’t say the fabric is terrible, but the overall design of it just wasn’t where I wanted to take the completed look.  So, going back to the drawing board and running out of time, I had to dye some new fabric. One issue – I was out of deep purple and raspberry dye. Like, totally out. Sigh.

Being the chief cook and bottle-washer, I made an executive decision. Change base colors.

For some reason, I have TONS of teal dye. Also within my dye stash was a full jar of a color from ProChem called brilliant blue. I wanted a two tone effect, so I distributed the liquid dye in random patterns over the fabric in the dye bath. Well a funny thing happened on the way to creativity, because when the two colors met in liquid form, they completely merged. Normally when you do low immersion dyeing, you get blotchy separations of color with a few places of overlapping ad merging – this is what makes low emersion dyeing so much fun; you just never know what you’re going to get. This time however, the colors blended into a sort of bastardized indigo color with hardly any separations or overlaps.

Whenever you dye fabric, you have to realize that yardage is deceptive. Unless you’re making a full skirt, you’re going to be cutting pieces out of the whole and changing the look of the cloth. Having said that, when I got it out of the dryer, I was a little nonplussed, but after I pressed the fabric a little bit, I quickly fell in love with it. The color is deep, rich and appealing.  The pictures don’t do it justice.

I knew the direction I wanted the embellishments to go in (more on that later) so while I had on my dust mask and goggles, I went ahead and dyed that fabric too.

Look familiar? It’s the new blog header!

You know, no matter how many times I dye fabric, I never get tired of stacking up all of the pieces into a deranged rainbow and just staring at it.

Here is the happy marriage of the bright hues against the dark indigo-esque blue/teal:

This is going to be fun.

Embellishments next.

G

]]> http://munizcouture.wordpress.com/2013/03/21/man-of-the-cloth/feed/ 0 gm4style IMG_0956 IMG_0970 IMG_0965 IMG_0963 http://munizcouture.wordpress.com/2013/03/19/a-new-project/ http://munizcouture.wordpress.com/2013/03/19/a-new-project/#comments Tue, 19 Mar 2013 15:40:55 +0000 gm4style http://munizcouture.wordpress.com/?p=1015 Continue reading →]]> How do you like the new look of the blog?

Not a drastic change, but a much needed lift! And…

FINALLY!

My sewing/drafting studio is up and running!

WELL IT’S ABOUT TIME MISTER!

And by ‘studio’, I mean the second bedroom and my dining room. It’s weird having a bifurcated work space, but I’m sure I’ll adjust. I’d show you all pictures of it, but it’s already a mess.

Buuuuuut, I’ll let you see what I’m working on.

Thanks to the move, I am just now starting on my IQA entry. I know, I know, I’m a bit tardy, but it’s going to be awesome! I hope. I’ll just need to work on it 24/7. Who needs sleep when there are clothes to be made!?! I’m not going to do the big reveal until it’s all done, but I’ll show you my preliminary steps in case you were wondering or bored and needed to look busy at work while reading a computer monitor.

Let’s start with the cut.

I have always wanted to do an asymmetrical jacket, so I bit the bullet and started draping with impunity! Apart from wanting a diagonal line to follow the contours of the body, I didn’t really have a game plan with the drape. I just started playing with the fabric on the mannequin and these lines just started emerging, but I needed to clean up the cut a bit to make it more receptive of the quilted fabric. The pieces, except for the collar and peplum, are all rather small and manageable, so embellishing them won’t be an issue. Or rather, shouldn’t be an issue.  This jacket is kind of a cheater asymmetrical cut, because from the mid bodice up, the pieces are the same. The asymmetry really stems from the exaggerated peplum.

These pictures are not of the initial draping, but rather the canvas first-cut. After the toile has been draped and the pattern trued, I do a preliminary first-cut in canvas to test the shape of the jacket. This helps me iron out all the patterning issues and tweek any changes that need to happen. The canvas is a bit stiff, so any flaws in the cut are greatly exaggerated and very visible. This is a good thing when trying to get everything perfect. Also, the canvas is a little closer to the consistency of quilted fabric than regular muslin and helps me to see potential issues in construction, thickness and embellishments.

Here is the front:

Believe it or not, there are only a few pattern pieces to this entire jacket, including the sleeve, but I hadn’t drafted the sleeve at this point.

The circles are proposed buttons, but they are DEFINITELY not in stone yet.  That’s another bonus to the canvas first-cut; you can mark it up any way you want and test things you couldn’t normally do on the finished product. And, because it is asymmetrical, I marked the front pieces ‘left’ and ‘right’ because I ALWAYS get confused.

I ended up redrafting the collar because of the narrowness in the middle of it at the front. I hadn’t expected the roll line to be co acute, so I needed to overcompensate, on the pattern, for the cutting-in on the outer edge. I’m not sure if that makes sense. (If you’re confused, ask me in the comments.)

The side views help you see the left godet on the peplum. The godet was actually supposed to be cut off as part of the drape, but I kept it in as that one little, bizarre element that will keep people guessing.

Back view. The back dart got killed because sewing a dart in quilted fabric just ain’t fun. The center back seam is now gone and was made into one big piece because folding quilted fabric ain’t fun neither.

 We’ll call it here for now. I’ll go over the potential embellishments next time.

Let me know if you have any questions in the comments section.

G

For the first time ever, I think, the good outweigh the bad. Let’s hope this trend continues. The less terrible clothes there are in the world, the better!

Now, I didn’t purposely go with such dark and somber choices, this is just what was available. The entire season – NY to Paris – felt dark and cozy. I’m not complaining though. I like color, but sometimes it’s nice to have it all grounded for fall.

As always, comments follow pictures.

THE GOOD

Veronique Branquino. I’m a sucker for a clean skirt suit and Branquino delivered with aplomb this season. The jacket is sexy enough to go without a shirt but clean enough to pair with a smart blouse. I’m digging this new length too, when worked onto a beautifully fitted skirt, and the gold leather shawl collar gives a stayed tradition a modern feel.

Yoji Yamamoto. KIMONO SLEEVES!!! OK, I’m calm now. I have a soft spot in the lump of coal I call my heart for kimono suits. They have been done before, but this is the only one I saw this season that made me happy. This entire collection was fantastic. Yamamoto said he wanted to return to the roots of construction and workmanship and boy, did he come through on that!

Zuhair Murad. I have nothing witty to say about this dress. It’s just beautiful. The entire collection was beautiful, but then again, I’d expect nothing less from a designer who is quickly becoming one of my favorites.

Dior. UUUUGH! Seriously, Raf Simons, please get it together and EVOLVE already!! He cannot, nay, REFUSES to make clothes that push that house even one iota forward. This collection was the same as the last collection and the same as the one before it. Seriously, BORING!  But… there was a glimmer of hope in the monotony. This dress is so clean and pretty, I had to acknowledge it. The illustration on the peplum is by Warhol and the model wore it very well. So I guess there is a shred of hope for the house, but really Raf, MOVE ON ALREADY!

AF Vanderhorst. Ignore the hair. I have to say, I really did like this collection a lot. There were the usual goofy suitings that they are known for, but this piece was what struck me. It’s sort of urban elegance and reminds me of a collapsed ball gown that a rocker chick grabbed out of the laundry basket and made her own.

Ann Demeulemeester. You really can’t go wrong with Demelu… Demuele… Demeeela… Ann. She has been making her kind of poetic tailoring for years now and has an insanely loyal following. This season was no exception to the languid clothes she normally makes, but for some reason this look, with its polished leather accessories, made otherwise obvious clothes seem fresh and modern.

Balmain. This collection was TERRIBLE. It was an unapologetic throwback to the 80’s and made me wonder who the target audience was. Then I saw this skirt and jacket. Maybe it’s the contrast of leather and satin. Maybe it’s the intense red. Maybe I’m drunk. Who knows, but I love this look. Mind you it was the only look in this collection I DID love, but still, it’s worth mentioning. I KNOW! I don’t get it either!

Chanel. As always, there was tweed. As always, there was plenty of texture. As always, there was lots of black fabric. But, within the dark galaxy of this show, there was this look. This dress, with its clean neckline and perfect length sleeve could easily have been overlooked. Frankly, I blame my fascination with it on the fact that Stella Tennant is modeling it. Of course, the boots and gloves don’t hurt. Oh and the necklace, I like that too. Also the negative space created by her legs works for it too. Did I mention the boots? I did… oh… So the model is Stella Tennant… oh I mentioned that too… huh, well, IT BARES REPEATING!

Comme Des Garcons. I NEVER look at the bulk of the Comme collection. Frankly, it is always way too cerebral for me. I don’t like assigning too much meaning to clothes, because, well, they are just clothes, but his collection did something for me. Rei Kawakubo really focused on cut this season by building details, like bows and little donut shapes, into the actual cut of the garments. It was remarkable, especially when she did the dimensional flowers. This look is the tamest of the lot, but still a remarkable exercise in the power of skill and workmanship.

Elie Saab. Drool. Me likey. Me likey A LOT! Really, a fantastic collection from a designer that really knows what his customer wants. The sheer was elegant. The lace was classy. The tailoring was perfect.  I fell in love with this particular dress. I guess it was pretty obvious when I started applauding at my desk while watching the show online.

Issey Miyake. Since Issey retired, this house has kind of floundered between artys and fartsy. I’ve lost count of the designers that have headed it since Miyake left and frankly, I ignore this collection most of the time. I checked it out this season and fell in love with this jacket. In and of itself, it’s pretty innocuous, but the inclusion of the contrast fabric and volume of the pants  made this image stand out for me. I would never have guesses it was Miyake because of its simplicity, but I suppose every fashion house deserves a few grounding looks.

Jitrois. When I saw the house of Jitrois was returning to the runway, my eyes instinctively rolled. This house had its heyday in the 80’s with its use of stretch leather. The pieces were well made and stylish, but that was then. I thought some punk would be designing for the house and take it in a new direction, but alas, Jean Claude Jitrois himself was designing the line and produced a beautiful collection that completely modernized his aesthetic. I don’t know many women who can rock this dress, but damn, I’d like to meet them. This is one of the sexiest dresses I have ever seen. The fringe is balanced perfectly with the sheer and leather cut-outs and the color is just enough for the woman to stand out in a crowd without being garish. I love this dress.

Leonard. The house of Leonard is known for its painted/printed knits- typically in floral designs. The house makes beautiful clothes and this dress is no exception. You have to be rather confident to get away with it, but I love the spray of flowers that follow the curves of the woman’s body. Grounding all of that embroidery with a black base makes the flowers pop out of the darkness. This dress is a brilliant tribute to the floral legacy of Leonard and a great step forward in its modernization.

And with that, Fall 2013 is done. Well, there is Tokyo and Sydney, I think, but I don’t cover those cities, but I’ll check them out in case there are some stars or stinkers floating around.

My studio is up and running and my next post will be sewing related. I’m working on a few things right now, so I should have some pics of works in progress soon.

As a special bonus, I present two of the goofiest runway moments from Paris.

Well hey there, foxy lady!

I wish it was a bit more tailored, but I can’t help but think there is a germ of an idea here. Leave it to Jean-Charles De Castlebajac to make me smile.

This collection was a bit heavy on the fur… and furries apparently. This lasting image comes from from the house of Moncler Gamme Rouge. They are a really forward thinking sportswear line that focuses on outer/ski wear. Giambattista Valli designs this line. The collection leaned a bit too “Sherpa on the mountain” for my tastes, but  who can resist a fuzzy polar bear and a fashion model walking arm in arm down a runway!?!

G

Unfortunately for us, all we’re left with is this steaming pile of leftovers from the city of lights.

Soon I’ll post the good and you’ll notice that the bad are seriously fewer than the good this season.

Wait, on my blog?

INORITE!

This was the most perplexing season in Paris, for me at least, because not only were the clothes terribly dark and moody, they were also VERY salable. It fact, it was one of the most marketable seasons in Paris to date; very few drama moments and you all know I loves me some drama! So, without further ado…

THE BAD

Comments follow pictures.

Amaya Arzuaga. Why do I get the impression that this is the bottom half of a construction/traffic cone costume for Halloween? She really needs a “trick or treat” handbag to complete the look.

Balenciaga. “So you guys work out? What’s your max? Yeah I like to work on my shoulders, pecs and biceps. Having LOTS of upper body strength, I find, is the way to really let people know you care about bulking up.”

Balmain. Gold lamé pants and an over shoulder-padded mohair sweater that is slowly consuming the poor, unfortunate model like a coconut dropped in a pool of fuzzy quicksand… hmmm. Now, either we’ve slipped into a 1988 time warp or this designer needs to learn how a modern woman dresses, ASAP!

Chloe. So, she was late for the runway because her Mia Farrow haircut took longer than she expected, tripped and fell into the lace kitchen curtains which got tangled and wrapped around her waist, then had to borrow her grandpa’s work shoes because she lost hers? Is that the story you’re sticking with honey?

Dries Van Noten. Oh God this kills me. I love Van Noten’s work, but even he is entitled to a fly in the ointment every now and then… I guess. This garment is less of a cocktail dress and more of a tequila sunrise feather duster in heels.

Givenchy. The press LOVED this collection, but all I saw was a disorganized jumble of hideous patchwork, odd fur and goofy hats. Ladies and gentlemen, EXHIBIT A! Seriously, this is what the crazy cat lady in the neighborhood wears to the grocery store.

Mugler. Oh hey, could I please wear a drab, gray dress that makes a size 2 model look like she’s smuggling gerbils under her clothes? And if it could be an unflattering length that’d be great! OH and if you have really clunky shoes that weight down the whole look, I’d really appreciate it… SAID NO ONE FREAKING EVER!

Gareth Pugh. This was actually a relatively commercial collection for Pugh and I have to admit, I found myself liking more pieces than hating them. He has done this shape to death, but overall, it’s dramatic and kind of interesting. Having said that, why did he feel the need to take inspiration from the bottom of cousin ITT’s shower for that hem treatment? It looks like Chewbacca coughed up a hairball and Pugh spent hours sewing on each strand with love.

Rochas. This entire collection was a joke. All of the clothes were so oversized; you could fit all of the models from this show under one skirt. It was difficult picking out just one turd from this fashion punchbowl, but I had to go with the one garment that looks like a deflated, satin blimp.

OK kids! Tomorrow we focus on the good and the beautiful that Paris has to offer.

G

]]> http://munizcouture.wordpress.com/2013/03/07/paris-fashion-week-fall-2013-ready-to-wear-the-bad/feed/ 1 gm4style Amaya Arzuaga, Ready to Wear, Fall Winter, Paris, 2013 Balenciaga Balmain Chloe Dries Van Noten Givenchy Mugler Pugh Rochas http://munizcouture.wordpress.com/2013/02/26/fall-2013-ready-to-wear-milan/ http://munizcouture.wordpress.com/2013/02/26/fall-2013-ready-to-wear-milan/#comments Tue, 26 Feb 2013 15:16:23 +0000 gm4style http://munizcouture.wordpress.com/?p=962 Continue reading →]]> Ciao Milan!

Well Milan fashion week has bit the dust and we are all geared up for Paris!

I have to say, Milan was a pleasant surprise this season. Normally I dismiss it because it can be a bit safe and obvious, but this time, I really saw a lot of growth and some beautiful clothes. Of course, there were the stinkers too, but all in all there wasn’t that much on the negative side, so I’m doing one big post for this season in Italy.

Comments follow the images.

THE GOOD

I really never look at the Albertta Ferretti collection. It is more often than not, a languid exercise in clean and safe clothing, but this season saw her branch out into slightly tougher, yet still approachable clothes; well, to my eye at least. This light avocado shift dress exemplifies the clean aesthetic of the house, but gives the wearer an elegant air thanks to the subtle beading. This is a perfect example of simple clothes not being boring.

I LOVED THE DSQUARED² COLLECTION!  There. I said it and I’m not taking it back. This collection is typically an over the top romp through a trendsetter’s closet, but this season the Caten boys slowed it down and took us to a singing siren’s war-time lounge. My one complaint was the way the trains on the evening dresses were cut. They were way too long and tripped up more than one model. The meat and potatoes of the collection was the suiting. This look exemplifies the overall mood of the collection with cohesive styling and beautiful fabrics.

I know nothing of Marco de Vicenzo, but if this is his normal course of study, I think we’re in for a great ride. There is something about this beautifully proportioned look that hits every high note with me. Clean color palette. Check. Unexpected textile treatment. Check. Clean styling without looking tired. Check. Beautiful fabrics I wish I had access to. That’s a big old check!

I have NO CLUE why I like this Prada coat. It shouldn’t work. The chinchilla, the green tweed and the contrast waist have nothing to do with anything, but here it is in the ‘win’ column. You know, it might be the cut and the length.  I know I’m a sucker for a 50’s silhouette, but Prada? Come on Gilbert. What’s wrong with you? OK, so the wet hair look is a bit flat and the… umm… DAMMIT! I got nothing. I just like this. WHO ARE YOU TO JUDGE ME????

Again, it’s that 50’s silhouette that churns my butter, but this has the sleek sophistication of that beautifully cut shearling jacket and the contrast textures of the black textiles. I love giant collars and this one from Ports 1961 really melts my already churned butter. The socks are a bit goofy, but I’ll excuse them because the overall appeal of this look is so irresistible.

The Dolce and Gabbana collection was… umm, well I’ll get into that in a second. BUT there was a glimmer of hope with this dazzling red dress. It drips with excess and, as someone who has spent HOURS hunched over a frame embellishing and adding sequins to garments, speaks volumes to me with that level of beading mastery. I love the length and definitely love the bold pop of color. This is the shining star in an otherwise obvious collection of black holes.

THE BAD

Told ya. Yeah the D&G boys went back to their beloved Sicily with a vengeance that only a mobster could appreciate. They said they were inspired by the mosaics in the churches, but seriously, you didn’t have to read a brief to figure that out. They have been down this road so many times,  they have worn out the asphalt with the wagon wheels. Seriously, this look sums up about 60% of the collection. Over time, the prints and images became cloying and repetitive. Yes they were beautifully made, but who wants to walk around town wearing a midi length saint on her body?

Did you know that the house of Fendi was founded by an amateur entomologist? That’s a total lie, but you’d never know it because Karl Lagerfeld sent this furry caterpillar down the runway for fall. Eventually, this coat will morph into a beautiful butterfly, but I guess we’ll have to wait until spring for that to happen.

This kills me. The house of the late designer Gianfranco Ferre was founded on his skills as a master tailor of white shirts. He made dozens of them each season with a beauty that always followed the shape and grace of a woman’s body. Apparently the new design team never got that memo and is now designing giant, white, unflattering blobs that look like Casper the ghost crash landed on the model’s chest.

Just Cavalli. Please, just stop! My God! This outfit is more confusing than assembly instructions from Ikea. At least there is a hotline for help at Ikea. This look just sort of leaves you hanging… like an unfinished symphony… of crap.

And once again, Donatella Versace proves she is out of touch with reality and has no clue what a woman needs to wear for fall. If I ever saw a woman walking down the street in this ensemble, I would: A – marvel at the fact that she can afford head to toe Versace, B – laugh hysterically and C – oh who am I kidding? I’d have passed out from laughing hysterically and need immediate medical attention.

If Blumarine had just left off the pants, this look might have been passable. But noooooooo, they just had to go there and ruin it for everyone! Let’s really read the description of those pants. Are you ready? Printed, peach and white, horizontal awning stripe, fitted capris. Seriously. On a runway… in Milan… by a venerable house that has been in business for like 20 years. Yeah…

OK, that’s it for Italy; up next, Paris.

Oh and my studio is shaping up nicely, so I should be back in the sewing groove soon enough.

G

I’m doing this in one post because London fashion “week” is actually just four days and there aren’t that many shows to see.

Comments follow the pictures.

THE BAD

Once again, designers prove that hideous, unflattering clothes are perfect for the runway! Here you see Emilia Wickstead’s plaid-tastrophe sauntering down the catwalk in front of a less than amused audience.

Again with the topiary dresses! Seriously, she looks like she woke up on the lawn, naked and drunk, then wrapped herself in the ‘welcome’ mat so she wouldn’t get arrested walking home! Thanks John Rocha.

By the looks of it, Kinder Aggugini is no stranger to the ‘shrooms. In fact I’d say there were LOTS of ‘shrooms used to help design this little number.

KTZ. So that’s what happened to Carmen Sandiego! I always wondered…

Mark Fast has you covered for those times you need to do some light dusting on the way to a pool party.

If you look carefully at the model’s face, you can actually see her soul being sucked away by this turd of an outfit. This entire collection was a let-down. The design team of Meadham Kirchoff usually inject a lot of life into the season, but this look proves that someone was asleep at the wheel.

Pringel of Scotland. You know, for those times you want to wear the mini blinds to the office.

THE GOOD

Normally I shy away from bold prints like this. They are typically too difficult to wear and can easily overpower any accessories, but these two looks from Duro Olowu work for me, for some unknown reason. The cape is a bit theatrical, but then again, most good capes are. I think it’s the black satin that helps ground these looks.

Giles Deacon is hit or miss every season and this collection was no exception. Amidst the flotsam and jetsam of his usual handiwork came this striking ensemble. The simplicity of the skirt paired with the intricacy of the laser-cut, gold bodice pair beautifully together.

Mary Katrantzou has made her career on digital prints– REALLY bright and garish digital prints. This season however, she dialed back the dramatic colors and focused on a cleaner, grayscale coloration. This look exemplifies her new aesthetic by combining her pension for intricate shapes and prints with the ease and simplicity of a black T-shirt. This is accessible opulence.

Temperly London. Like New York, there were a lot of obviously practical collections that just didn’t stand out. When combing through the pictures, I found that this simple, yet elegant cocktail dress kept staring back at me. The cut and embellishment are just interesting enough so that a clean white dress becomes a standout in a sea of monotony.

 I love Vivenne Westwood simply because she makes clothes the way she wants to. This suit from her Red Label is quintessential Westwood in that when worn, it looks slightly off, as if moving on the body in a way that suggests it has a life of its own. The tailoring is sharp and the color is enough to make a statement in a boardroom of gray pinstripes.

OK, Milan is next, but it’s going to take a while to sort through those collections.

G

There were a handful of nice things that did catch my eye though. I try to explain why I like them, but honestly, these looks just made me smile.

Comments follow the pictures.

Marc Jacobs can be hit or miss from season to season; in fact, this season was one of the simplest and most straightforward outings he’s ever had. There were several basic shapes and cuts, but this dress caught my eye for its ease, simplicity and clean decoration. The sleeve length, neckline and sweep of the hem pull this dress together perfectly on the model. This dress will be difficult to keep on the racks at Neimans.

Thom Browne is New York’s showman. For his women’s ready to wear, he typically pushes the envelope beyond the limit. I really liked this collection except for the fact that the flat look from the shoulder has been done to death by other houses. There were a few exceptions though, like this look. The styling is over-the-top, but the clean fabric composition and beautiful tailoring makes this a nice example of how “outré” can be just this side of wearable.

Vivienne Tam has made her name on an east meets west mélange of cuts and shapes. It is a difficult line to straddle when you’re constantly force fed Asian accouterments  but Tam knows how to balance it perfectly. This offering takes a traditional Chinese character and turns it into a graphic element that gives a simple dress an unexpected delivery and modernity.

Anna Sui is the fashion historian of the New York set. She tends to air on the side of rock and roll, but always with a whimsy and youthfulness that feels fresh. The bright tights and bold use of electric blue binding hearken back to her beginnings without making a retrospective move. This is a look that makes a statement without having to say a word.

It’s going to be difficult to top Oscar De La Renta on evening wear. I am always in awe of designers who can turn something like a sleeveless top and a wrap skirt into a sophisticated, yet effortless statement. The violet belt and black shoes are styled perfectly with the turquoise satin. Oh to have an event to go to in this outfit!

 OK, We have London, Milan and Paris left AND I promise that I will start to get up some projects as soon as I get my studio unpacked.

G

For the most part, The NY runways are filled with the same old, boring blazers and trousers that get paraded out, season after season. However, a few designers do try to get creative with their collections. There are some shining stars (that I will point out in the next post) but for now, let’s stare agog at the steaming pile of WTF that the city that never sleeps has dished out for Fall 2013 ready to wear.

Comments follow pictures.

It’s like a pilgrim and a hippie got drunk one night and decided to have a baby.

Only it wasn’t a baby, it was this turd of a dress by Rodarte.

Could we all get together and buy Prabal Gurung some more fabric to finish his dress?

He had to make this work with the scraps left on the cutting room floor.

So sad.

Thanks to Jeremy Scott, somewhere out in the world is a very cold, fur-less Muppet.

The Elder Statesman

(yes, that is the name of the label. No, really.)

So let me get this straight. The photographer was told to make the models look like they are being held hostage wearing their older sister’s parochial school uniform from the 80′s?

Oh dear.

Michael Kors, please stop designing evening wear.

You suck at it. Really, really, suck at it.

Oh Carolina Herrera, your usual flair for whimsical evening wear really backfired this time.

Like, a terribly loud backfire… that frightened cattle into a stampede.

Seriously, who wants to look like a Victorian librarian wearing a visual illustration of a virus?

Dear house of Honor, WTF is this supposed to be?

I’ve stared at it so long, my eyes started to bleed and I STILL can’t figure it out.

Is she supposed to be a prisoner at a heart shaped emerald mine?

I await your answer.

G