Like I said, the New York collections were all about practicality. It’s difficult for me to get excited about a cashmere sweater and a pair of khakis, so the good list is rather short. There were some beautiful, albeit safe collections, but I’d have to start a new blog just to show you all of the camel coats.
There were a handful of nice things that did catch my eye though. I try to explain why I like them, but honestly, these looks just made me smile.
Comments follow the pictures.
Marc Jacobs can be hit or miss from season to season; in fact, this season was one of the simplest and most straightforward outings he’s ever had. There were several basic shapes and cuts, but this dress caught my eye for its ease, simplicity and clean decoration. The sleeve length, neckline and sweep of the hem pull this dress together perfectly on the model. This dress will be difficult to keep on the racks at Neimans.
Thom Browne is New York’s showman. For his women’s ready to wear, he typically pushes the envelope beyond the limit. I really liked this collection except for the fact that the flat look from the shoulder has been done to death by other houses. There were a few exceptions though, like this look. The styling is over-the-top, but the clean fabric composition and beautiful tailoring makes this a nice example of how “outré” can be just this side of wearable.
Vivienne Tam has made her name on an east meets west mélange of cuts and shapes. It is a difficult line to straddle when you’re constantly force fed Asian accouterments but Tam knows how to balance it perfectly. This offering takes a traditional Chinese character and turns it into a graphic element that gives a simple dress an unexpected delivery and modernity.
Anna Sui is the fashion historian of the New York set. She tends to air on the side of rock and roll, but always with a whimsy and youthfulness that feels fresh. The bright tights and bold use of electric blue binding hearken back to her beginnings without making a retrospective move. This is a look that makes a statement without having to say a word.
It’s going to be difficult to top Oscar De La Renta on evening wear. I am always in awe of designers who can turn something like a sleeveless top and a wrap skirt into a sophisticated, yet effortless statement. The violet belt and black shoes are styled perfectly with the turquoise satin. Oh to have an event to go to in this outfit!
OK, We have London, Milan and Paris left AND I promise that I will start to get up some projects as soon as I get my studio unpacked.