Fall 2013 Ready to Wear: Milan

Ciao Milan!

Well Milan fashion week has bit the dust and we are all geared up for Paris!

I have to say, Milan was a pleasant surprise this season. Normally I dismiss it because it can be a bit safe and obvious, but this time, I really saw a lot of growth and some beautiful clothes. Of course, there were the stinkers too, but all in all there wasn’t that much on the negative side, so I’m doing one big post for this season in Italy.

Comments follow the images.

THE GOOD

Alberta Ferretti

I really never look at the Albertta Ferretti collection. It is more often than not, a languid exercise in clean and safe clothing, but this season saw her branch out into slightly tougher, yet still approachable clothes; well, to my eye at least. This light avocado shift dress exemplifies the clean aesthetic of the house, but gives the wearer an elegant air thanks to the subtle beading. This is a perfect example of simple clothes not being boring.

DSquared

I LOVED THE DSQUARED2 COLLECTION!  There. I said it and I’m not taking it back. This collection is typically an over the top romp through a trendsetter’s closet, but this season the Caten boys slowed it down and took us to a singing siren’s war-time lounge. My one complaint was the way the trains on the evening dresses were cut. They were way too long and tripped up more than one model. The meat and potatoes of the collection was the suiting. This look exemplifies the overall mood of the collection with cohesive styling and beautiful fabrics.

Marco De Vincenzo

I know nothing of Marco de Vicenzo, but if this is his normal course of study, I think we’re in for a great ride. There is something about this beautifully proportioned look that hits every high note with me. Clean color palette. Check. Unexpected textile treatment. Check. Clean styling without looking tired. Check. Beautiful fabrics I wish I had access to. That’s a big old check!

Prada

I have NO CLUE why I like this Prada coat. It shouldn’t work. The chinchilla, the green tweed and the contrast waist have nothing to do with anything, but here it is in the ‘win’ column. You know, it might be the cut and the length.  I know I’m a sucker for a 50’s silhouette, but Prada? Come on Gilbert. What’s wrong with you? OK, so the wet hair look is a bit flat and the… umm… DAMMIT! I got nothing. I just like this. WHO ARE YOU TO JUDGE ME????

Ports 1961

Again, it’s that 50’s silhouette that churns my butter, but this has the sleek sophistication of that beautifully cut shearling jacket and the contrast textures of the black textiles. I love giant collars and this one from Ports 1961 really melts my already churned butter. The socks are a bit goofy, but I’ll excuse them because the overall appeal of this look is so irresistible.

Dolce and Gabbana1

The Dolce and Gabbana collection was… umm, well I’ll get into that in a second. BUT there was a glimmer of hope with this dazzling red dress. It drips with excess and, as someone who has spent HOURS hunched over a frame embellishing and adding sequins to garments, speaks volumes to me with that level of beading mastery. I love the length and definitely love the bold pop of color. This is the shining star in an otherwise obvious collection of black holes.

THE BAD

Dolce and Gabbana

Told ya. Yeah the D&G boys went back to their beloved Sicily with a vengeance that only a mobster could appreciate. They said they were inspired by the mosaics in the churches, but seriously, you didn’t have to read a brief to figure that out. They have been down this road so many times,  they have worn out the asphalt with the wagon wheels. Seriously, this look sums up about 60% of the collection. Over time, the prints and images became cloying and repetitive. Yes they were beautifully made, but who wants to walk around town wearing a midi length saint on her body?

Fendi

Did you know that the house of Fendi was founded by an amateur entomologist? That’s a total lie, but you’d never know it because Karl Lagerfeld sent this furry caterpillar down the runway for fall. Eventually, this coat will morph into a beautiful butterfly, but I guess we’ll have to wait until spring for that to happen.

Gianfranco Ferre

This kills me. The house of the late designer Gianfranco Ferre was founded on his skills as a master tailor of white shirts. He made dozens of them each season with a beauty that always followed the shape and grace of a woman’s body. Apparently the new design team never got that memo and is now designing giant, white, unflattering blobs that look like Casper the ghost crash landed on the model’s chest.

Just Cavalli

Just Cavalli. Please, just stop! My God! This outfit is more confusing than assembly instructions from Ikea. At least there is a hotline for help at Ikea. This look just sort of leaves you hanging… like an unfinished symphony… of crap.

Versace

And once again, Donatella Versace proves she is out of touch with reality and has no clue what a woman needs to wear for fall. If I ever saw a woman walking down the street in this ensemble, I would: A – marvel at the fact that she can afford head to toe Versace, B – laugh hysterically and C – oh who am I kidding? I’d have passed out from laughing hysterically and need immediate medical attention.

Blumarine

If Blumarine had just left off the pants, this look might have been passable. But noooooooo, they just had to go there and ruin it for everyone! Let’s really read the description of those pants. Are you ready? Printed, peach and white, horizontal awning stripe, fitted capris. Seriously. On a runway… in Milan… by a venerable house that has been in business for like 20 years. Yeah…

OK, that’s it for Italy; up next, Paris.

Oh and my studio is shaping up nicely, so I should be back in the sewing groove soon enough.

G

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