How do you like the new look of the blog?
Not a drastic change, but a much needed lift! And…
My sewing/drafting studio is up and running!
WELL IT’S ABOUT TIME MISTER!
And by ‘studio’, I mean the second bedroom and my dining room. It’s weird having a bifurcated work space, but I’m sure I’ll adjust. I’d show you all pictures of it, but it’s already a mess.
Buuuuuut, I’ll let you see what I’m working on.
Thanks to the move, I am just now starting on my IQA entry. I know, I know, I’m a bit tardy, but it’s going to be awesome! I hope. I’ll just need to work on it 24/7. Who needs sleep when there are clothes to be made!?! I’m not going to do the big reveal until it’s all done, but I’ll show you my preliminary steps in case you were wondering or bored and needed to look busy at work while reading a computer monitor.
Let’s start with the cut.
I have always wanted to do an asymmetrical jacket, so I bit the bullet and started draping with impunity! Apart from wanting a diagonal line to follow the contours of the body, I didn’t really have a game plan with the drape. I just started playing with the fabric on the mannequin and these lines just started emerging, but I needed to clean up the cut a bit to make it more receptive of the quilted fabric. The pieces, except for the collar and peplum, are all rather small and manageable, so embellishing them won’t be an issue. Or rather, shouldn’t be an issue. 😉 This jacket is kind of a cheater asymmetrical cut, because from the mid bodice up, the pieces are the same. The asymmetry really stems from the exaggerated peplum.
These pictures are not of the initial draping, but rather the canvas first-cut. After the toile has been draped and the pattern trued, I do a preliminary first-cut in canvas to test the shape of the jacket. This helps me iron out all the patterning issues and tweek any changes that need to happen. The canvas is a bit stiff, so any flaws in the cut are greatly exaggerated and very visible. This is a good thing when trying to get everything perfect. Also, the canvas is a little closer to the consistency of quilted fabric than regular muslin and helps me to see potential issues in construction, thickness and embellishments.
Here is the front:
Believe it or not, there are only a few pattern pieces to this entire jacket, including the sleeve, but I hadn’t drafted the sleeve at this point.
The circles are proposed buttons, but they are DEFINITELY not in stone yet. That’s another bonus to the canvas first-cut; you can mark it up any way you want and test things you couldn’t normally do on the finished product. And, because it is asymmetrical, I marked the front pieces ‘left’ and ‘right’ because I ALWAYS get confused.
I ended up redrafting the collar because of the narrowness in the middle of it at the front. I hadn’t expected the roll line to be co acute, so I needed to overcompensate, on the pattern, for the cutting-in on the outer edge. I’m not sure if that makes sense. (If you’re confused, ask me in the comments.)
The side views help you see the left godet on the peplum. The godet was actually supposed to be cut off as part of the drape, but I kept it in as that one little, bizarre element that will keep people guessing.
Back view. The back dart got killed because sewing a dart in quilted fabric just ain’t fun. The center back seam is now gone and was made into one big piece because folding quilted fabric ain’t fun neither.
We’ll call it here for now. I’ll go over the potential embellishments next time.
Let me know if you have any questions in the comments section.