Well kids, New York fashion week is a thing of the past and with it got he hopes and dreams of a decent spring in 2014. This season, like several in its wake was a SNOOZE FEST! Boring doesn’t even begin to describe it. All of the heavy hitters took naps while designing this round. I get that designers like to slow down every now and then, but come on, there wasn’t anything to talk about this season… except these few entries.
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Carolina Herrera. There was a huge play on graphics this season from several designers. Herrera did them well with minuscule lines that when layered, looked like undulating, optical illusions. This bustier and skirt sample exemplifies the look best. The details in the top’s cut and fabric compliment the skirts movement beautifully.
DVF. Let’s face it Diane von Furstenberg knows how to design smart dresses for smart women. This season was a bit of a sleeper for DVF, but a few looks blew away the cobwebs. This look is perfect for spring. It nails the graphic trend and is accessorized and modeled perfectly. This one is going to fly off the racks come next spring.
Gary Graham. I love his clothes. He always takes an irreverent approach to design and comes out with winners each season. I love the simplicity of this cut paired with the richness of the beading. The colors suggest that this top has been buried in a steamer trunk in some forgotten attic for centuries and then found by a lucky lady who gets to wear and cherish it.
Proenza Schouler. Hole up. What the hell is Porenza Schouler doing on the good list? They make groupie clothes without merit; how did they get here? This must be a clerical error. That, OR, they kinda cleaned up a smidge this season, but JUST A SMIDGE! There is something terribly modern about his look. The layers and the length are fantastic and the color is unexpected for spring. DAMMIT!
Ralph Rucci. Oh boy, was this ever a yawn inducing season for Ralph Rucci! His usual sense of dramatic flare failed him, as you’ll see on the Bad List, but low and behold we did get a silver lining here and there. This copper pailletted dress is definitely one of those shafts of light. His signature, architectural lines are augmented by the graduated glitz of the ovals and the clean styling takes nothing away from this look’s brilliance. An absolute winner!
Alexander Wang. WTF? WHY IS WANG ON THIS LIST!? I HATE HIS CLOTHES, LIKE, WITH A PASSION! I must be getting soft in my old age. Yes, it’s true; I like this look. I know it’s on the verge of too simple, but the contrast stitching is really good and the overall shape and proportion to the body is fantastic. THERE! I SAID IT! ARE YOU HAPPY??!! NOW GET OFF MY LAWN YOU ROTTEN KIDS!!
Marc Jacobs. What can you say about a spring collection that was primarily geared for fall? It was actually very pretty, but the heavy fabrics and trims were belied by the even heavier color palate. I can’t imagine how this collection is going to fair in stores next to a season of acid brights and bone white columns, but there were some absolutely gorgeous pieces within it. This dress was one of several that aired on the side of Victoriana, but even with the somber wit and heavy attributes, this is a killer dress that needs to be highlighted.
OK, now for something different.
There were a few collections that I thought worked in their entirety. Don’t get me wrong, styling, and a few ill-conceived clothes are apparent within them, but overall, they worked. Instead of posting the pics I think work, I present the videos of the collections. Enjoy. I know I did.
Prabal Gurung, I NEVER pay attention to his collection, but this one really stuck out for me. I loved almost every piece in this pencil skirt forest. It was a salute to the 50’s with nary a poodle skirt pastiche in sight! Bravo!
Nicholas K. Yes the feathers are odd. No, I don’t like the headbands. Yes, there are a couple of potato sack dresses in the mix. BUT, the overall feel was that of a troop of nomads trekking across a barren wasteland. The mood was obvious, in a good way, and the collection felt cohesive and clean.
Thom Browne. Now just wait a minute. Before you start to pass out from laughing, let me present my evidence on behalf of fashion. This collection is presented in a goofy, over-the-top manner that does come off as harsh and, well, insane. BUT, look at the pieces. When paired down for the stores, they will be insanely approachable. Yes, some of the cage things at the end were a bit confusing, but look at the techniques that created them. That level of construction takes a skilled hand. Even the shoes work with it. See, that wasn’t so bad. Was it?
Well now that we’ve gotten the pleasantries out of the way, tune in next time for a butt-load of “what the Hell were they thinking?” moments on the Bad list.