It seems like forever since Paris fashion week ended, but it was a few of days ago. With so many shows, it took me a while to cut through all the nonsense to only realize that there wasn’t a whole lot happening in the city of lights. Still, a few highlights and deep puddles emerged, so without further ado…
Chanel. I liked the painterly effects Lagerfeld worked with this season, but the overall mood of the collection felt a bit washed out. This look, however, in muted hues is classic Chanel, but with an updated silhouette and cut. It is accessorized perfectly and smartly modeled down the runway. Overall, a winner.
Gareth Pugh. This collection was probably one of his most commercial outings yet. He has done this cut of jacket to death, but for some reason, this abbreviated version felt fresh. I think it has to do with the shot of color in the gown. I can live without the shoes and eyebrows though.
Olympia Le Tan. There was something about this print and cut that made me smile. The collection always takes a whitty turn and this season was no exception. There is a fun youthfulness to this dress but at the same time, there is a simple tradition to the shirtwaist cut. It’s a great piece for a variety of ages.
Rick Owens. Ugh. He had a bevy of steppers hit the runway for one of his usual performances pieces. I wished he would have highlighted their beauty more than he did, but that was just the show. The clothes, on the other hand, were brilliant. This is one of the best collections he has done in seasons. They were futuristic, yet approachable; rough, yet feminine. Overall, the collection was one of my favorites of his career.
Undercover. This collection was rather a sane outing for the house. I probably would have passed it up if not for this look. The hair is a bit beguiling, but I’m a sucker for a funky bustier. The lines are great and as dangerous as they are, the shoes work well for it. Clean and brilliant.
Westwood Gold. Dame Viv was on fire this season! This entire collection hearkened back to her heyday and highlighted the houses love affair with exquisite tailoring. This dress is one of several that stood out, but its clean sophistication won out over the rest. The styling is a bit questionable, but I wouldn’t expect anything less from Westwood.
Balmain. Oh wow was this collection terrible. It was basically a rip-off of Chanel from the 80’s – and not the good stuff that came from the 80’s. Massive shoulder pads, gaudy acid-washed denim looks and gaudy chains drowned every look in this steaming pile of sartorial crap. This look exemplifies the more is more theme and frankly, I’d prefer WAY less of it.
Celine. I have no idea what Phoebe Philo was smoking while designing these prints this season. That poor T-shirt looks like it’s being attacked by giant, black amoebas! Don’t ask me why it was then paired with that skirt, because I have NO clue! The make-up and styling were confusing as well. All in all, this was a dud for me, but of course, the press LOVED it. I honestly think Philo has picture of the press in compromising positions because that can be the only explanation for her never doing wrong in their eyes.
Christophe Lemaire. Aww, how cute! This little girl is wearing her daddy’s suit. Doesn’t she look precious? Yeah, I don’t think so either.
Dries Van Noten. Ouch. Van Noten is one of my faves, but honestly, he just phoned in this collection. There were a few looks that worked, but overall, the entire line looked obvious and pale. This blouse looks like a vintage petticoat vomited on a tank top. He worked with a lot of pleated fabrics this season and very few of the pieces worked well… obviously.
Ungaro. WHY was this house revived YET AGAIN? And if it was to be revived, why was Fausto Puglisi allowed to show this nightmare of a gown? It looks like a radioactive chemical spill with ruffles. And what’s up with those straps? It’s like they ran out of fabric and tried to turn it into a design detail. I can’t tell if that is a split or it the dress spontaneously regenerated a severed leg.
OK kids, that’s it for fashion month. I’m off to quilt fest in a few weeks, so it might go quiet for a bit. I’ll try to post updates on current projects as often as I can.