This season, I think I’ll try to keep up with the collections instead of just posting a wrap up at the end. I’ll probably give my final thoughts, but for now, I’ll keep doing updates. Rather than make a good/bad list, I’ll just post my thoughts on the various collections as wholes. (Although, I doubt I’ll pass on the opportunity to compile the misses of the season. >;)
Versace. OMG!! THIS COLLECTION WAS AWESOME!!!!! Seriously, it was damn near perfect in its presentation. The cuts were spot on and the the color story was dark and mysterious. I haven’t been in love with an Atelier Versace collection since Gianni died and this season renewed my faith in the house. Absolutely brilliant!!
Schiaparelli. OK, I’ll admit, I kinda liked this collection. It wasn’t all smooth sailing, but I think it held true to the house’s roots. There were plenty of surreal moments and lots of surprises. Stephen Jones, as usual, did the hats to perfection. You might think that some of these are a bit goofy, but honestly, I can see Elsa herself designing them. I can live without the monkey fur jacket on the squirrel dress, but dammit, I love that print!
On Aura Tout Vu. This collection was refined and like a good sauce, reduced to the core elements that make it delicious. The colors were dark and somber, like looking at crystal-lined cave, on the edge of the sea, through fog.They really have fun with embellishments, but this season felt restrained, in a good way, and that really worked in their favor. J’adore ce collection!
Fred Sathal. I haven’t seen Sathal’s work in a long time, but I see that she hasn’t lost an ounce of her charm. She is known for taking terribly simple shapes and embellishing the Hell out of them. She definitely has a signature look, but it never feels tired or obvious. This was a pulled together season for her and I look forward to seeing her regularly on the Haute Couture schedule.
Dior. I am so very tired of Raf Simons at the house of Dior. He has no clue how to design anything beyond the same five shapes he always makes. Frankly, if you’ve seen one of his collections, you’ve seen them all. It was boring, obvious and frankly, glorified ready to wear. I have only one thing to say about it: