And the reviews continue. I have to say, this season has been delightfully grand in its deliveries. I haven’t been this happy about haute couture in a long time!
Alexis Mabille. Each look was an individualist’s dream! He relied on a few of his traditional shapes and cuts, but overall, this collection felt more of a step forward for him. There were beautiful lace effects and of course, his fantastic tailoring. Stand outs were the double breasted pieces and his draped violet looks. It was the most like a client’s closet that he’s ever done. Overall, a brilliant outing.
Chanel. Sorry, let me pick myself off the floor from fainting over the awesomeness first, and then I’ll type the review. First off let’s look at the marvelous suitings. Oh wait, no, let’s look at the embroideries. Wait, let’s start with the shiny pieces. Well, darn, I suppose it would be easier to say that this was my favorite Chanel collection in a long time, but that would be cheating.
Lagerfeld dropped all the pretension of trying to define the future and focused on refining the house’s core. He exaggerated shapes, pulled back on the glitz and really showed what a venerable haute couture house is made of – class and pride.
Stephane Rolland. There are just a few designers out there that can make me giddy about fashion. Rolland is now one of them. This collection hit all the hallmarks of what couture should be and shook them up into a maelstrom of sharp tailoring and brilliant decoration. The watercolor effect of the draped, painted silks was fresh and innovative. The voluminous draping of a peplum gives birth to new ideas in proportion and the slick cutting of sheer illusion turned a Mannequin de cabine into a hand drawn super-heroine dancing at a fantasy gala. Fantastic collection, ultimate couture!
Armani Prive. Oh boy, Giorgio. I’m not going to call this collection lazy, but dammit, do we really need ANOTHER black jacket from the house of Armani? He went the obvious route with a red, black and white color story and well, yeah, that’s about it. Yes, the clothes are beautifully tailored. Yes, the look is classic sophistication. But honestly, Girogio Armani makes beautiful suits and ballgowns for the ready to wear, why not experiment with new innovations for the couture line like you did with the jewel and snake collections?? The collection was pretty, but that’s about it. Frankly, Mr. Armani…