There must have been something in the water this season in Paris because EVERYONE was in a practical mood. I have never seen this many salable collections in the city of lights. For a second there, I though the New York collections had taken over.
This collection was so clean and cleverly cut, I had to acknowledge it. There was a sweeping grandeur to the cut of the clothes -like old world, Victorian portraits from a future past. That makes no sense, but trust me, they were really good. I look forward to seeing more from this designer.
It’s official, this was the most rack-ready collection Pugh has ever done in his career. There were so many wearable looks, it was hard to tell where the showpieces began. Styling was clean, save for some interesting head gear, and overall, the collection felt approachable and clean. Seriously, did he even design these looks? Hmmm, I wonder…
Jean Paul Gaultier
Au revoir Monsieur Gaultier, you will be missed. JPG called the ready to wear portion of his label collective quits this season after 30 plus years. He’s had a great run and it’s good to go out on top. This season saw a beauty pageant with all the models as contestants. The looks were… umm, well, they worked. I suppose I wanted some grand exit of his greatest looks, but ultimately, he cranked out more of the same he’s been working with the last few seasons. Everyone needs a break and Jean Paul has certainly earned his. Still, he’ll be missed, if nothing for the drama, and at least we still have the haute couture.
The king of over-doing-it calmed down a little. Arora is known for insane decoration on his looks and whereas the clothes had a brightness to them still, he really cleaned up his act and presented a collection that could grace any department store rack. Don’t get me wrong, there is still a bonkers load of print and color happening, but it felt a little less gimmicky this season. I hope this trend translates into more sales for him.
Dries Van Noten
THANK GOD Dries nailed it this season. I was really starting to get worried. The last few seasons have been, ehhh, OK, but this season saw a return to the Van Noten of the past. He reimagined his neck-tie prints, tightened up tailoring and dipped back into his shadowed runway presentations. It was nice to see him on form and even nicer to see the beautiful pieces he sent out. Clean, innovative cuts paired with creative fabrications and colors – who can ask for anything more?
It took them a while to grow on me, but with each passing season, I fall more and more in love with the clothes. This season had the addition of cotton and aluminum fabric that would hold exaggerated shapes. Not the most practical fabric on the planet, but hey, it looked awesome. They have really honed in on pieces that look utilitarian, but scream high fashion. The look is part rock star, part explorer, and all of it works in beautiful synchronicity.
There was a fresh brightness to the Branquino collection this season. She always does a wearable collection, but this time, the clothes had a certain bounce and lightness to them – even when the hems grazed the floor. She is a smart tailor and those skills didn’t disappoint this season. Styling was clean and the color story definitely followed a nautical line. She doesn’t show large collections, but what was included was sharp and neatly edited.
OK, later, I’ll serve up some turkeys!