Fall 2015: New York

New York fashion week is done and dusted.

I have to say, there were quite a few nice surprises, considering last season was such a snooze fest.
I really didn’t have that many duds this go-round, so I can only bring you my top seven collections, in all their gracefulness.

Thom Browne

I demand that Tom Browne dress every attendant of my future funeral!
This collection was so sleek in its delivery; I can’t wait to see the sociable glitterati ensconced in a sea of black, next fall. Each piece was the usual, goofy ball of Browne WTF, but there were such levels of refinement and charm oozing from every seam that any outré details quickly melded into the normalcy of the bizarre.
I have no idea what any of that means.

Gary Graham

I never think of Graham as a business suit kind of guy, but I have to say, this season, the tailoring was on point and working.  Customers are shopping at Graham for off-beat provisions that work season to season. His options this fall follow his usual knack for dusty treasures and forgotten linens, long-since lost to arcana, but there was a slight freshness in his reworked textiles and muted hues. These clothes are not for everyone, and frankly, I hope they never change.

Prabal Gurung

Two seasons in a row for this guy… hmmm. Either he’s getting better or I’m losing my touch. Admittedly, some of the skirt slits were bordering on the naughty, but I have to say, this collection felt smooth and refined. The guy knows how to cut a dress well; I just think he needs to work on fit. I did like the mix of refined modernity and retro swagger that he tossed in the hopper, though (That blue column dress could have a Geoffrey Beene label in it). Let’s hope he keeps this winning streak up.

Carolina Hererra

Oh, my dear Carolina, how I loved this collection! There was a bold, graphic line that ran throughout the entire season chez Hererra, and it worked beautifully.  Even the simplest of garments stood out with daring bravado. Styling was clean and accessories were equally refined. I really wish she made menswear in the same vein. I really wish I could afford said menswear.

Marc Jacobs

Dear Marc, IT’S ABOUT DAMN TIME! I don’t know what was in the water the last few seasons at Jacobs, but I am so glad it was flushed through the pipes and dumped in the Hudson.  This collection was a dark celebration of cut, detail and design. Almost every look was a feast for the eyes. There were myriad embellishment elements to keep the customers wanting more, and the painterly textiles and surface treatments were beyond exquisite. It’s a stellar hit, for sure! Let’s hope he keeps this momentum going next season.

Josie Natori

Natori’s collections could easily get swallowed up the hurly-burly of the New York collections, and that would be a shame. She has only been designing ready to wear for a few seasons; and already, she has cultivated an air of refinement and class that has taken other designers years to achieve. She has the benefit of her sleepwear line to back her up, but if she continues to keep up this pace, she won’t really need the safety net because these piece stand on their own VERY well.


WHAT? Ugh. OK, fine. The Rodarte collection was good. NOT GREAT, good.  Well, OK, maybe a little better than good. Dammit.
Believe me when I say that not everything worked. More than half of the feathered things should have stayed on the newspaper-lined cage floor, but I have to say, this collection felt way more refined than seasons past. The day-wear worked well, but the collection kind of fell apart in the evening section, save for a few of the high-impact sequins looks. . Ladies, next season, could you please drop the ball?
I’m getting tired of complimenting you.

OK, London is on its way!


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