Fall 2015 Ready to Wear: Paris

Paris when it sizzles!

I was pleasantly surprised this time around, in the city of lights. Yeah, there were a few duds, but honestly, there weren’t that many bad collections. Honestly, there was something to pull from every line presented this season.

I can’t believe I’m about to say this, but for the first time EVER on this blog, I don’t have a fashion turkey list to present for this city OR the entire season.

I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IS HAPPENING!!!

Having said that, let’s focus on the last stop of the magical fashion tour that is fall 2015.

 Aganovich

Second season I’ve noticed this collection and well, I think I’m in love. It does skew a bit steampunk meets Tim Burton, but really, how is that a bad thing? The cuts are innovative, the fabrics, although traditional, are always rendered with a modern vibe, and the styling is clean and fitting to the mood.  Sure, some of these pieces are a bit formal and buttoned up, but separated, these pieces would blend into an existing wardrobe of curiosities from around the fashion museum. I would genuinely be interested in seeing a menswear line from this house.

Akris

This house has been around for a while now and their sophisticated longevity was easily reflected in this fall collection. You can always count on Akris to deliver a clean collection, but this season came with a side of subversive sex appeal that is sure to delight their existing clientele and entice a whole new, interested customer.  There wasn’t a retro silhouette in the bunch, and all of the modern fabrics and treatments drove home the point that Akris is setting a course for the future of fashion. Yeah, I know that sounds like nonsense, but seriously, this collection is fantastic.

 Dries Van Noten

Dear Dries, I love you. No, seriously, I really love you and what you do for the industry. I know whe’ve had some dicey seasons recently, but all was forgiven when I saw this collection. It is brilliant. You managed to take the history of your house and inject a healthy dose of freshness into it. The over skirts, in their simplicity, were outstanding.  The stark ethnic prints evoked a linear tribalism that should be explored for future collection inspiration. And the textures and surface treatments… perfection. Thank you for making me smile, thank you for designing this collection and thank you for making beautiful things.

Chanel

Well, if you needed to go shopping for old lady clothes this coming fall, HAVE I GOT A HOUSE FOR YOU! Seriously, every look on the runway had a dated, vintage look without any sense of irony. Goofy volumes, clunky details and wandering fabric patterns left me confused and scared.  Nothing in this collection seemed to fit, and in the case of that hideous chicken feather overcoat, practically drowned the model in a flurry of gully-fluff! This is the season to skip at Chanel.

Maison Margiela

Well, if the Artisinal collection Galliano designed for the house didn’t convince you that he knows what the Hell he is doing, this collection drove the point home like a NASCAR driver crossing the finish line. Yes the makeup and styling was over the top, but honestly, for this house, a genuine argument could be made for its restraint! There were treats and tricks to every look. From almost unnoticeable beading on the print of a blazer to the loose floats on a brocade woven to look inside out, the textile story this season was superb. This collection has never been for the masses, and as long as Galliano is at the helm, I’m just fine with that. Bravo John!

 McQueen

OMG REAL CLOTHES ON THE RUNWAY!!! I can’t believe it! From start to finish, I honestly couldn’t see one goofy showpiece! I’m truly floored that Burton was able to stow away the pageantry and focus on wearable pieces. Hell, even the cuts looked like a bevy of house signatures and line traditions. I don’t have a problem with the showmanship as long as there is SOMETHING to wear on the runway. but it just seems that Burton couldn’t calm down the crazy in recent seasons. Here, she shows restraint and refinement. Sarah, please keep this up, because this collection was great!

Rick Owens

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, Rick Owens is a brilliant designer. His grandeur does get away from him from time to time, but honestly, the guy knows how to make clothes! He knows his customer inside and out and delivers what they want with every collection. This season was an exercise in control as he focused on a palette of Earth tones like stone and ochre. The styling was clean, save for a few gilded faces, and the draping on some of the more ornate pieces was innovative and interesting. You’re never going to go to Owens for a glamorous evening gown, but what he offers in exchange is just as stunning and worth of a spotlight. Not for everyone, but there is definitely going to be a line outside the door when these pieces hit the store next fall.

Yoji Yamamoto

I was almost hesitant to talk about this collection; I’m not really sure why, but I saw its beauty as reaching back to Yamamoto’s collections of the 90’s, and this kind of worried me that Yoji was creating a swan song, of sorts. There was such an honestly to the clothes, and I know this is going to sound really stupid, that they felt almost TOO personal.  Like he was ending something and never returning. I know, I know, weird, right? Anyhoo, this collection was beautiful. From clean and simple looks like the gray jacket pictured, to over the top ball gowns built with scaffolding and under structures that stuck out like card tables, this collection covered all the points it set out to make. I just hope this season doesn’t end something for Yamamoto because I want to see what the future holds for his work.

OK kids, that’s all for this season.

I’ll be back soon with a big announcement. Well, it’s big for me.

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