Haute Couture – Paris, Fall 2015. Le Finale

The good, the bad and the WTF?
Well, I’m cramming it all into this last post for the haute couture season that was Fall 2015.

What a long, strange trip it’s been!

First up, some overlooked collections that really deserve more credit that the mainstream press is willing to give them. That’s a shame because they really do hold their own.

Frank Sorbier

No one, and I mean, NO ONE spins poetry like Sorbier. His collections aren’t grand like the couture powerhouses, but there is still a decided richness that exudes from every stitch Sorbier sews.  The guy knows how to create magic and this season, we were transported to a wintery wonderland complete with stark white forest and ballet dancing fairies. Each exit was a delight in various values of white and cream. As the models mugged for the camera, grand arabesques exaggerated the brilliant textiles and cuts Sorbier is known for. This is the purest example of couture you’ll find. Sorbier is a genius as weaving a narrative with cloth and this season was no exception.

Georges Chakra

Ah, the 50’s. I remember them fondly… from old movies on TCM.
This season, Chakra took us to a cocktail party flooded with radiant divas tripping the light fantastic, in glorious party dresses, drowned in rich detail.  The only real criticism I have of this show was that there could have been some tighter editing. It felt a little top heavy as he tried every couture technique on the planet; I’m not opposed to technique, but sometimes there are too many options. Still, the collection is beautiful and offers a ton of choices for any would-be client.  As I looked at the pictures, I found myself saying, “Oh wow, that’s beautiful,” more than any other collection this season., so there must be a method to his madness.

Rami Kadi

OMG THIS COLLECTION WAS SO COOL! OK, so I have a thing for insects on dresses. It kinda started with the roach dress Ricki Lake wears in Hairspray.
Don’t judge me.
Kadi took the idea of the creepy crawlers and turned them into the stuff of legend. Using embroidered insect motifs, Kadi worked in light reactive fibers, so when the surrounding lights are dimmed, the magic of glow-in-the-dark thread illuminates the bugs in a phosphorescent green haze. Against the black backgrounds of the gowns, this house shows us the possible future of couture. I don’t usually like gimmicks in design, but I’m giving this collection a pass because I can’t see that anyone else has ever done this on this level.  Apart from the light tricks, the cuts of the looks were fantastic. Even in the light of day, this tightly edited collection holds its own against more established lines.  I can’t wait to se what next season holds for Kadi.

OK, now for some honorable mentions:

Julien Fournie

Julien Fournié Couture Fall Winter 2015 Fashion Show in Paris

This collection was dark and moody. Perfect for fall, but overall, it felt a bit run of the mill. Sill, there were some beautiful looks to be had.

Valentino

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Serviceable and OMG so much black! I think Taroni must have had a sale on black silk because I have NEVER seen a season so rife with darkness.
For being shown as the hallmark to the new flagship store in Rome, this collection sure was lackluster. It felt like they were going through the motions, rather than pulling out all the stops and showing what the Valention atelier can do.

Fendi Couture

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I honestly don’t see the point of this collection. It’s not like Fendi doesn’t already make forty to fifty thousand dollar coats. Did they really need to double the price for a few customers? Anyway, always experimental, there were some beautiful techniques in this collection, but overall, it just seemed flat and lackluster, and for coats that can top the charts at the cost of a four bedroom house, you wonder what all the fuss was about.

Zurhair Murad and Elie Saab

It’s gotten to the point where I can’t tell these two collections apart.
Seriously, if these looks had been shown in one collection, you’d be just as confused.
Admittedly, Sabb has been doing the “color group” presentations longer, AND both collections were beautiful, but damn, it almost seems like a waste of time to review the both of them separately, so I’m not going to until the they remember they are individuals.

And now, all the steaming hot messes NO haute couture season would be without:

Alexandre Vauthier

Alexandre Vauthier Couture Fall Winter 2015 Fashion Show in Paris

Sure, the fringing technique is a neat idea, but the “Late 70’s hooker on payday” look has got be a hard sell.  I mean, damn, for the price, do you think this frock comes with a street corner and a limo partition?

Charlie Le Mindu

Charlie Le Mindu Couture Fall Winter 2015 Collection in Paris

Remember that week you skipped the bikini wax? CHARLI SURE THE HELL DOES!!! Damn girl, I see in the last election that you voted for Bush! And just what every woman needs, MORE BOOBIES!! Only these can be removed for easier washing.

Christian Dior

Dior Fashion Show, Couture Collection Fall Winter 2015 in Paris

Dear God, how long is the model’s neck? She might actually be part giraffe!
This collection was so ugly I can’t understand how it got produced. It’s like the top brass at LVMH refuses to be corrected and replace him. So, they let Simons loose in the atelier to spite the detractors.
Raf is like the little kid who can’t draw, but begs his mommy to put his artistic monstrosities on the fridge. Mommy knows it’s crap, but does it anyway, then gives him a cookie.

Stephane Rolland

Stephane Rolland Fashion Show, Couture Collection Fall Winter 2015 in Paris

Wow, what happened this season chez Rolland? The collection, presented on one podium, was terribly underwhelming. Included in the mix was this little number reminiscent of the Flying Nun’s habit coming in for a landing.
I’m all for experiment, but that collar looks like frozen paper towels.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier Fashion Show, Couture Collection Fall Winter 2015 in Paris

I honestly have no idea what Gaultier was thinking with this look. Flattened roadkill? Rorschach test? Bear relaxing in a tide pool after a long day of gathering shells? Your guess is as good as mine. I can’t imagine how much this thing weights or where you’d wear this to. Hell, if nothing else, that skirt shape would work well as an entry room throw rug.

Ilja Couture.

Ilja Couture Fall Winter 2015 Fashion Show in Paris

“I’ll take the shapeless, poo-brown coat with blue velvet sleeves and the bizarre chiffon top that vomits cascading ruffles from my gut, please.”  – SAID NO ONE EVER!!

Yanina Couture

Yanina Couture Fall Winter 2015 Fashion Show in Paris

This collection wasn’t that bad, but HELLOOOOO TITTY!
You think if she jiggles, the two birds will look like they are fighting each other?

Ulyana Sergeenko

Ulyana Sergeenko Fashion Show, Couture Collection Fall Winter 2015 in Paris

This is what happens when you let a blind clown design a dress for your collection.

OK kiddos, I’ll be back soon with updates, class schedules
and a whole lot of nonsense!!

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