Unusually, Marras sent out a dark and moody collection for spring. Normally, his pieces are bursting with color, but I have to say, the somber color story and clean shapes worked to his favor. There were still the trademark embellishments and trims, but this season, they felt refined and well edited against colors like bark, taupe and chocolate. The all white finale injected a little brightness into the otherwise tame collection, and gave the overall atmosphere a breath of fresh air.
Oh dear. “Bondage at the gym” is the only way to describe this collection from the duo Caten. Not sure how they came up with the convoluted shapes and cuts, but the overall effect was a hot mess. Bizarre layers, goofy color combinations and unapologetic sexuality added up to a confusing romp through over-designed nonsense. There were a few pieces that could work their way into an existing wardrobe, but for a head-to-toe shopper, it’s best to avoid this season.
Did I miss a meeting? When did red, white and blue collections suddenly become all the rage? First it was Marc Jacobs, now it’s Armani. I guess it makes sense in the US, but Milan? Yeah, let’s just chalk it up to a vaguely nautical theme and leave it at that. Chez Gio, there were plenty of his signature jackets, pants and blouses, and yes, it all looked beautiful, but as usual, there was a general lack of innovation and NO sense of moving forward. I guess he knows his customer, but I’m constantly left wondering how many of his customers need the exact same thing they have, five times over?
His first season out, I wasn’t sold; but for some reason, Allesandro Michele’s “everything AND the kitchen sink” formula seemed to work this time ’round. You’ll never find a cohesive story on his catwalk, but that bizarre hodgepodge of color, print (some of the best in Milan) and enthusiastic embellishments meshed into a delightful porridge of delicious ready to wear. There will be something for everyone on the racks this season at Gucci, but keeping up this pace of myriad, colorful separates is going to wear thin, quickly. Let’s hope he can calm down and reign in his overflowing lexicon of ideas before next season.
Dammit, Jeremy Scott, why must you make me smile? I was truly on the fence with Scott at Moschino. Yeah, the guy is about as subtle as a flood at an Alka-Seltzer factory, but that goofy joie de vivre genuinely paid off this season. Scott took us on a romp through a construction zone vis-a-vis 1940’s and 50’s couture. I have no idea how those two ideas came toghether, but the result was a mad-cap and delightful collection that FINALLY had the polish and professionalism that a Moschino collection deserves. I found myself applauding and giggling with delight as the BRAND NEW LOOK logo Bar suit and Caddilac ballgowns took the runway. Comical? Sure, but come next spring, shops are going to have a hard time keeping any of those pieces on the racks for long.
Whoa, where did this collection come from? Trussardi is first and foremost, a leather goods house. That kind of hallmark is a hard sell in spring, but this season, they knocked it out of the park with a beautifully muted collection that took a trek through an exotic dessert. Nomads in loose linen and drapable suede pieces sauntered to the sparkle of beautiful embroideries and embellishments. Simple, well edited and above all, a fresh approach for spring from one of Italy’s most storied houses.
No, seriously, this is Verasce. I know; I don’t believe it either. The entire spring collection was rack-ready, without a goofy or overdesigned showpiece in sight. Tightly edited, cleanly cut and above all WEARABLE! No, they are not going to break new ground here, especially with belted duffel coats, but every now and then, especially at the house of excess, it’s nice to wipe the slate clean and relax in modern simplicity. Hell, even the styling was clean and fresh. IS THIS REAL LIFE???
OK, Paris is up next.