Fall 2016: New York

That’s it! I give up! New York has bored me for the last time. Unless there is a vibrant jolt of excitement during the next Spring collections, I will no longer be covering the New York shows. It’s so sad that a city based on energy and wonder can’t get it together to freshen up a dying, creative industry.

The 70’s revival of the 90’s? Really? This was the most obvious theme of the season? Guys, it didn’t work the first time, was this trip really necessary? SERIOUSLY, more than most of the designers showed bell bottoms in the lion’s share of their collections.Let me repeat that: BELL. BOTTOMS.

And if I send 7th avenue a box of crayons for color inspiration, could you all just pass it around to make sure everyone knows what the Hell interesting hues are supposed to look like? My gawd, it’s like a colorblind mortician painted all the fabric this season. Even DKNY, a house founded on taxicab yellow, was barely lucky to get a shot of red at the end of the 90% black and more black collection.

Yeah, there were a few shots of adrenaline in the mix.
And by “a few” I literally mean A FEW.

These are the collections that didn’t put me to sleep. Don’t worry, it’s a short list.

Thom Browne

Yeah, I know, it’s nonsense as usual at the house of Browne, but honestly, I’m really cinching this collection for Stephen Jones’ glorious neck tie head sculptures. There were the usual goofy, tailored looks, but the freshness came from really working with texture. Fabrics were designed to look shredded, cuts were designed to look haphazard and trims weren’t always what they seemed. It was something of the new for Browne, and I’m eager to see if he can keep this trend going for next season.

Nicholas K

Again, the M.O. at Nicholas K rarely changes, but there was a languid smoothness to some of this season’s looks. Tailored charmeuse and draped outerwear moved along the runway with a slinky sex appeal that I rarely see at their shows.It was also one of the most formal shows they’ve ever had. Maybe the team at NK is growing up? Regardless, it’s always a great ride!

Marc Jacobs

Well, I hope you have a black-tie funeral to go to this coming fall because Marc Jacobs has some clothes to sell! Dark, depressing, dower and above all EXCITING! Yup, chez Jacobs was one of the highlights this season (if you can call a predominately dark color palette “a highlight”) because he was one of a handful of designers that actually took a risk and (gasp!) got creative with clothing design! SHOCKING, I know. Seriously, the cuts were a dream and the fabrications and embellishments were outstanding. Just ignore the Marcel Wave mullets and the shiner eye-jobs, and you should be fine.

Cynthia Rowley

Wait, really? OK, I guess. Yeah, like I said, New York was slim pickings this season, but Rowley delivered a collection that was on point, clean and above all, true to herself. Look, you’re never going to buy a revolution when you’re shopping at Rowley’s, but when a lot of other designers are trying to be something they are not, it’s good to see that someone is showing a lookbook of honest staples from their finely crafted heritage. Wearable, fun and above all, interesting, Rowley nailed it with her signature wit this season and proves how she has been able to last so long in this industry.

Yup, that’s it for New York.

London, Milan then Paris next.

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