Milan: Fall 2016

OMG MILAN! Bringing the heat!

I haven’t been this excited about the Milan collections in a while! Beautiful fabrications, cuts and tailoring all added up to a fresh and lithe season that mixed traditional classics with streamlined modernity. Yeah, I know that sounds pretentious, but just go with me on this – it was all really good!

DSquared2

Look, I’m not the Caten’s biggest fan. I think some of their collections verge on the garish, but this season felt more pulled together and edited than past seasons. It was like Adirondack couture, with fox coats, mountain man print mixing and lux textures dripping with their usual embroidered opulence; however, within all the decadence, there was an approachable hand to all the looks. No, this stuff ain’t hitting Macy’s any time soon, and with price tags that range in the tens of thousands, I’m not sure they should, but for the first time in a while, the collection felt honest, and if for nothing else, I’m applauding them for their efforts.

Moschino

THIS GIRL IS ON FIRE!!
No, really.
Burning it all down was the theme this season chez Moschino as the models rocked cigarette earrings, tough-as-nails leather and dresses that were LITERALLY smoking as they stomped the runway. Too much? Well yeah, but it was all too much fun to ignore. Amidst the nonsense were plenty of frocks and looks to keep the retailers happy, plenty of drama to keep the editors happy, and PLENTY of fun to keep the wanting masses , well, wanting more. I have to say, the opening look, a long leather jacket gown, seemed fresh and, to me at least, something I’ve honestly not seen in all my years in design. I will say that the gilt mirror pieces were reminiscent of Todd Oldham’s fall ’92 Interiors collection, but they were just a nod and not direct copies.  Having said all that, there could have been a little editing on Scott’s part, as the burning edge looks did seem to drag on, (and honestly, Deacon did this theme just a year or so ago, did we really need to revisit it so soon?)but the good time was enviable and ultimetly, burned us all up!

Roberto Cavalli

WOOHOO! Peter Dundas is back designing for a house that needed a lift, and fits within his sexy-design aesthetic.  He’s really good at dissecting a house’s traditions, and this season at Cavalli, we got a beautiful mix of modernity and the house’s history. I always let a designer have a first collection, just to settle into a house. I will state opinion, but usually save the vitriol for their sophomore outing (if needed); however, I don’t think I’ll need to voice any concern because this collection was so smooth,  well-delivered and honest to the legacy of Cavalli, I can’t imagine Dundas will need much prodding. It was beautifully brilliant, and I can’t wait to see next season.
Side note: What’s with this guy and designing for houses that end with an “i”?

Jil Sander

Look, I usually bypass this house as its design helm has gone through more hands than a doobie at a frat party, and the aesthetic has dry-heaved and floundered over the years, but this season was so clean and true to the legacy of Jil Sander, I had no choice but to sit up and take notice. The head designer, Rodolfo Paglialunga, obviously went through the archives and studied what made Jil Sander a notable designer – strong lines for women laced with a modern edge.  You’re not getting a flowing cocktail dress at Sander, and Paglialunga knows this. He made beautifully tailored coats, handsome jackets and a few metallic frocks that will satisfy the coolest clientele on the market. Revolutionary? Nope, but that’s exactly the way it should be at Sander.  Smooth, effortless and above all, sincere.

OK, Paris is the last. It’ll be up in a little bit.

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